Do the shoes really make the runner? Some would argue that it really
doesn't matter, yet others would seem to argue the exact opposite. I
truly believe that there is some need to have a superior shoe,
regardless of the reason you are running at all. But there seems to be a
lot of different worries when it comes to finding just the right shoe
for you. Can you find one with the right stability, the right support,
the right technologies, and the right comfort in order to make you want
to try it out. I'll explain to you what you should be specifically
looking for in all of those qualities and even give you a lot of
examples as to which specific shoes you might want to try.
Stability/Construction
A very important key is the stability a running shoe gives to your
feet. Stability comes from a number of different factors, most important
of which is the actual material of the shoe. When you are looking at
the materials that a shoe is made of, the upper and even a bit of the
mid should be of the leather variety, whether it is man made or natural
is of little consequence. The uppers also have to be breathable, which
you'll notice with the combination of mesh and leather shoes
used for uppers and mids. The bottoms should be a very strong rubber
that will not wear with use on the streets or on trails. Some prefer
some of the newer mesh uppers such as are used on the Nike Free
editions, but to me those are flimsy and don't provide enough stability
for the runner. Your best bet is to find a show which has the
combination of the leather uppers and rubber bottoms. Lastly, what I
suggest is trying on as many shoes as possible, and doing a little test
for stability. Walk on your tiptoes in the store with the shoes on. This
simple test will allow you to accurately feel how much stability they
offer. Stable shoes are easier to walk in while walking on your tiptoes.
Top Shoes (Stability): New Balance M1222, New Balance M767, Nike Shox FSM, Adidas adiStar Control
Support
Some would say that support goes hand in hand with the stability and
construction of the shoe, but to me its two different concepts. For
support, it's not just the materials or the construction, but it's the
way they perform. Sometimes, you'll find shoes which are made well but
don't offer you anything once they are used in real running situations.
These shoes are the shoes that you may be fooled into buying. Some key
points to look for when it comes to support. Pay attention to the
construction of the shoe around the ankle. You want shoes that will hug
your ankle bone, not cover it up or have little contact with it at all.
This depends on your foot more than the shoe itself, because the same
shoe will fit two different people in different ways. When a shoe hugs
the ankle, it will support it without hampering its movement or giving
too much slack to the ankle. You also want a show that will stretch to
your foot. Once it molds itself, you'll feel its specific support
qualities for you in running. Roll your ankles when you try the shoes
on. The shoe, if a good fit, will roll with the ankle freely. If the
shoe either hampers the movement or allows too much freedom without
moving with the foot, then it will not offer adequate support.
Top Shoes (Support): New Balance M498, Puma Phasis III, Nike Air Zoom Elite, Nike Air Max Moto IV
Technologies
It's not just about air bubbles or shocks or pumps. New shoes come with
technologies that can help your running motion, your health, and your
comfort. Adidas has its adiStar line, which boasts a Ground Control
System that limits the wear on a show and the effect your striking the
ground has on your feet. Nike still has both the air bubbles and the
Shox, but also the Free series which is extremely breathable and
lightweight for your running. What I suggest is to find places where the
people are more than knowledgeable and can answer advanced questions.
You'll be surprised what you'll learn.
Top Shoes (Technology): Adidas adiStar series, Nike Air Max series
Comfort
Some would argue that this is the most important quality. You want a
show that you'll be comfortable in, whether it's running or simply
wearing around the town. A shoe that has the ability to mold to the
specific contours of your feet can make the difference between sore feet
and relaxed feet. One thing you need to watch for which could be
deceiving is the amount of cushion in a shoe. Sometimes too much cushion
can have as negative of an effect on your foot that not enough cushion
will. It will make your feet sore, push into your feet and cause pains,
and even wear on your toes causing skin to loosen. Push the shoe into
the ground when you try them on. You should still be able to feel the
ground through the cushion, but not enough to hurt your foot.
Top Shoes (Comfort): Nike Air Max series, Nike Free series, New Balance M975
Most importantly for each person, to find a running shoe takes
patience and an understanding of what you like. If you're looking for
comfort, there's a shoe for you. If you want the newest in running shoe
technology or good construction, I'm sure you can find a shoe for you as
well. Remember the tests that I told you about in each category. They
will help you immensely in finding a running shoe that you can be
satisfied with. Whether it's Nike or Adidas, New Balance or Puma, the
brand doesn't matter as long as you can find the needs you're looking
for. Good luck to you in your hunts.
Monday, 4 August 2014
Are Your Dishes Coming Out of the Dishwasher Dirty?
If your dishwasher isn't washing dirty dishes to your satisfaction,
before you call for service, there are steps you can take to correct
potential automatic dishwasher problems. When dishes are washed in an
automatic dishwasher, and time and time again you're finding them dirty,
you may need to make some adjustments in order for your dishwasher to
properly and effectively wash dirty dishes. Many times when dishes
washed in an automatic dishwasher remain dirty, the solutions are
simple, and a dishwasher repair person is not required. If the
dishwasher problem is not mechanical or electrical, chances are you can
fix your dishwasher so your dirty dishes come out sparkling clean.
Water Temperature
If your dishes are continually dirty after washing them in your automatic dishwasher, the first thing to check is the water temperature. Test the temperature by running hot water in your kitchen sink, and check the water with a kitchen thermometer. The temperature of your hot water must range between 140 degrees and 160 degrees Fahrenheit or your dirty dishes will probably still be dirty after running the dishwasher. If you discover the temperature of your hot water is less than 140 degrees Fahrenheit, turn up the temperature accordingly. Chances are, the next time you run your automatic dishwasher, your dirty dishes will come out clean as a whistle.
Dirty Black Marks on Dishes
When dirty dishes are placed in the dishwasher, sometimes utensils such as metal spatulas or lightweight metal pans rub against plates and other dirty dishes during the washing process. These dirty black marks make dishes appear dirty when in fact they are only surface scratches caused by the metal. Avoid placing metal utensils and pans where they can scratch dirty dishes. Metal items should never come in contact with dirty dishes or other scratchable items. Making sure metal utensils are separate from other dirty dishes will prevent those dishes from having scratches that make them appear dirty.
Dirty Rust Spots on Dishes
Rust spots on dishes make dishes appear dirty, and no one wants dinner guests to wonder if dishes simply stained or actually dirty. If you are pulling dishes out of your automatic dishwasher that appear to be dirty and spotted with rust, chances are the prongs of your dishwasher racks are rusting and staining the dishes. Unfortunately dishwasher manufacturers make dishwasher racks out of metal that rusts, and the racks are coated in plastic that eventually comes off. Dishwasher manufacturers are counting on selling replacement racks, but you don't have to buy new racks. There are plastic caps that fit over the ends of dishwasher rack prongs. These caps will help prevent further rust, and they will keep your dishes from looking dirty and spotted by rust.
Cloudy or Dirty Film on Glass
If glasses and other clear glass dishes look dirty and coated in a cloudy film that won't come off, your glasses and other glass dishes have no doubt become permanently etched. This etching that makes glasses and other glass items appear dirty is caused when too much automatic dishwashing detergent is used. There isn't anything that can be done to remove the dirty looking film from glassware, but further etching may be prevented by using less dishwashing detergent. If you don't think you're using too much dishwashing detergent, consider the pressure of your hot water. If hot water pressure is low, the dishwasher may not be filling properly. A dishwasher not filling to the correct level will also cause glasses and other glass items to appear dirty and covered with a permanent film.
Removable Dirty Film on Dishes
If your dishes are coming out of the dishwasher covered by a removable dirty film, your water may not be hot enough, or you could be using an inferior brand of automatic dishwashing detergent. If you have tested your hot water and find it is between 140 degrees and 160 degrees Fahrenheit, consider how long it takes for the hot water to reach the dirty dishes in the dishwasher. If the hot water has to travel a long distance to reach the dishwasher, chances are the water filling the dishwasher starts out cold. To alleviate this problem, run the hot water nearest to your dishwasher until the water coming out is hot. This will guarantee the water filling the dishwasher is as hot as it should be to properly clean dirty dishes.
To remove this type of film from dirty dishes, after running the dishes through a basic rinse cycle, set a bowl filled with a cup or two of white vinegar on the lowest rack of the dishwasher. Remove any metal pans or utensils, and with the vinegar on the bottom rack, wash the dishes as usual. Dirty dishes that were once covered in film should come out squeaky clean.
Clogged Spray Arm
Sometimes the spray arms of automatic dishwashers become clogged, and dishes that should be clean remain dirty. Clogged spray arms cannot rotate, so the best way to tell if the spray arm of your dishwasher is clogged is by checking to see if the spray arm is rotating properly. Before starting your dishwasher, take note of where the spray arm is positioned. Stop the dishwasher in mid-cycle and see if the spray arms have moved. If the spray arms haven't moved, chances are they are clogged, and this is why your dishes are coming out dirty.
First remove the dishwasher racks. Then unscrew the hub cap securing the spray arm, and remove it. Use a very narrow wire brush to remove any clogs, and rinse the interior of the arm under a high pressure faucet or hose. Reattach the spray arm, and next time dirty dishes are washed they should be properly cleaned.
Clogged Filter Screen
Many automatic dishwashers are equipped with a filter screen, and sometimes the filter screens become dirty and clogged, especially if the water has a high mineral content. Dirty dishes washed in a dishwasher with a dirty clogged filter screen will often throw food particles back on the dishes. To unclog a dirty filter screen, remove the spray arm as instructed above, and remove any clips holding the screen in place. Remove the dirty screen, and scrub it with a stiff nylon brush. If the filter screen is clogged by mineral deposits, soak it in white vinegar for at least an hour, and scrub it again until it is no longer dirty. Reattach the filter screen and the spray arm, and wash your dirty dishes as usual. Dishes that were once dirty should now be clean and shiny.
Water Temperature
If your dishes are continually dirty after washing them in your automatic dishwasher, the first thing to check is the water temperature. Test the temperature by running hot water in your kitchen sink, and check the water with a kitchen thermometer. The temperature of your hot water must range between 140 degrees and 160 degrees Fahrenheit or your dirty dishes will probably still be dirty after running the dishwasher. If you discover the temperature of your hot water is less than 140 degrees Fahrenheit, turn up the temperature accordingly. Chances are, the next time you run your automatic dishwasher, your dirty dishes will come out clean as a whistle.
Dirty Black Marks on Dishes
When dirty dishes are placed in the dishwasher, sometimes utensils such as metal spatulas or lightweight metal pans rub against plates and other dirty dishes during the washing process. These dirty black marks make dishes appear dirty when in fact they are only surface scratches caused by the metal. Avoid placing metal utensils and pans where they can scratch dirty dishes. Metal items should never come in contact with dirty dishes or other scratchable items. Making sure metal utensils are separate from other dirty dishes will prevent those dishes from having scratches that make them appear dirty.
Dirty Rust Spots on Dishes
Rust spots on dishes make dishes appear dirty, and no one wants dinner guests to wonder if dishes simply stained or actually dirty. If you are pulling dishes out of your automatic dishwasher that appear to be dirty and spotted with rust, chances are the prongs of your dishwasher racks are rusting and staining the dishes. Unfortunately dishwasher manufacturers make dishwasher racks out of metal that rusts, and the racks are coated in plastic that eventually comes off. Dishwasher manufacturers are counting on selling replacement racks, but you don't have to buy new racks. There are plastic caps that fit over the ends of dishwasher rack prongs. These caps will help prevent further rust, and they will keep your dishes from looking dirty and spotted by rust.
Cloudy or Dirty Film on Glass
If glasses and other clear glass dishes look dirty and coated in a cloudy film that won't come off, your glasses and other glass dishes have no doubt become permanently etched. This etching that makes glasses and other glass items appear dirty is caused when too much automatic dishwashing detergent is used. There isn't anything that can be done to remove the dirty looking film from glassware, but further etching may be prevented by using less dishwashing detergent. If you don't think you're using too much dishwashing detergent, consider the pressure of your hot water. If hot water pressure is low, the dishwasher may not be filling properly. A dishwasher not filling to the correct level will also cause glasses and other glass items to appear dirty and covered with a permanent film.
Removable Dirty Film on Dishes
If your dishes are coming out of the dishwasher covered by a removable dirty film, your water may not be hot enough, or you could be using an inferior brand of automatic dishwashing detergent. If you have tested your hot water and find it is between 140 degrees and 160 degrees Fahrenheit, consider how long it takes for the hot water to reach the dirty dishes in the dishwasher. If the hot water has to travel a long distance to reach the dishwasher, chances are the water filling the dishwasher starts out cold. To alleviate this problem, run the hot water nearest to your dishwasher until the water coming out is hot. This will guarantee the water filling the dishwasher is as hot as it should be to properly clean dirty dishes.
To remove this type of film from dirty dishes, after running the dishes through a basic rinse cycle, set a bowl filled with a cup or two of white vinegar on the lowest rack of the dishwasher. Remove any metal pans or utensils, and with the vinegar on the bottom rack, wash the dishes as usual. Dirty dishes that were once covered in film should come out squeaky clean.
Clogged Spray Arm
Sometimes the spray arms of automatic dishwashers become clogged, and dishes that should be clean remain dirty. Clogged spray arms cannot rotate, so the best way to tell if the spray arm of your dishwasher is clogged is by checking to see if the spray arm is rotating properly. Before starting your dishwasher, take note of where the spray arm is positioned. Stop the dishwasher in mid-cycle and see if the spray arms have moved. If the spray arms haven't moved, chances are they are clogged, and this is why your dishes are coming out dirty.
First remove the dishwasher racks. Then unscrew the hub cap securing the spray arm, and remove it. Use a very narrow wire brush to remove any clogs, and rinse the interior of the arm under a high pressure faucet or hose. Reattach the spray arm, and next time dirty dishes are washed they should be properly cleaned.
Clogged Filter Screen
Many automatic dishwashers are equipped with a filter screen, and sometimes the filter screens become dirty and clogged, especially if the water has a high mineral content. Dirty dishes washed in a dishwasher with a dirty clogged filter screen will often throw food particles back on the dishes. To unclog a dirty filter screen, remove the spray arm as instructed above, and remove any clips holding the screen in place. Remove the dirty screen, and scrub it with a stiff nylon brush. If the filter screen is clogged by mineral deposits, soak it in white vinegar for at least an hour, and scrub it again until it is no longer dirty. Reattach the filter screen and the spray arm, and wash your dirty dishes as usual. Dishes that were once dirty should now be clean and shiny.
How to Spot a Home Meth Lab and What to Do About it
Methamphetamine, a drug that acts as a central nervous system stimulant,
is highly addictive and can be lethal. Meth is said to be even more
addictive than cocaine and far more dangerous. A pound of meth is equal
to approximately six pounds of hazardous waste and requires full Haz-Mat
suits to remove it from the place of business.
Supplies needed to make meth are found at your local stores such as coffee filters, paper towels, iodine, drain cleaner, measuring cups, glass jars, and turkey basters. Since the supplies don't have to be specially ordered it makes it much easier to run a meth lab without being noticed by suppliers.
Most meth labs are in rural areas where they won't attract as much attention. The labs are known to explode on occasion and kill others and spread toxic fumes for miles. Police are working diligently to locate and shut down the labs but many hundreds of the labs go unnoticed.
Common places for meth labs are abandoned poultry houses, metal storage sheds, tobacco barns, mobile homes and abandoned houses. The labs can also be traveling labs, set up in campers, large trucks or even cars.
There are signs to look for if you suspect someone may be running a meth lab close to your own home. One sign is the horrible odor of rotten eggs, ammonia or cat urine. Cooking meth produces a terrible odor which depends upon the particular ingredients used.
Makers of meth sell to dealers who then sell to customers. Look for heavy traffic after dark. This is a sign that meth is being made and dispersed to dealers. Also, meth-making produces tremendous amounts of trash that is often burned outdoors.
Windows that are always blackened, without curtains that occasionally open and shut, could be another sign of a meth lab. The windows are kept where no one can look in and see something that shouldn't be seen.
Some things that are often staples of meth lab owners are lots of glass containers, bottles with hoses, batteries, or propane tanks. Often the tanks are corroded and may have tape wrapped around the valves.
Lots of home owners have major security but rundown places with excessive security, like cameras, dogs and alarms, could be protecting something illegal. Your state can use your help when it comes to breaking up meth labs but never put yourself in a dangerous position. If you suspect someone is running a meth lab near you call the authorities and let them investigate. Drug dealers are often ruthless people who will do anything - even kill - to protect their business.
Supplies needed to make meth are found at your local stores such as coffee filters, paper towels, iodine, drain cleaner, measuring cups, glass jars, and turkey basters. Since the supplies don't have to be specially ordered it makes it much easier to run a meth lab without being noticed by suppliers.
Most meth labs are in rural areas where they won't attract as much attention. The labs are known to explode on occasion and kill others and spread toxic fumes for miles. Police are working diligently to locate and shut down the labs but many hundreds of the labs go unnoticed.
Common places for meth labs are abandoned poultry houses, metal storage sheds, tobacco barns, mobile homes and abandoned houses. The labs can also be traveling labs, set up in campers, large trucks or even cars.
There are signs to look for if you suspect someone may be running a meth lab close to your own home. One sign is the horrible odor of rotten eggs, ammonia or cat urine. Cooking meth produces a terrible odor which depends upon the particular ingredients used.
Makers of meth sell to dealers who then sell to customers. Look for heavy traffic after dark. This is a sign that meth is being made and dispersed to dealers. Also, meth-making produces tremendous amounts of trash that is often burned outdoors.
Windows that are always blackened, without curtains that occasionally open and shut, could be another sign of a meth lab. The windows are kept where no one can look in and see something that shouldn't be seen.
Some things that are often staples of meth lab owners are lots of glass containers, bottles with hoses, batteries, or propane tanks. Often the tanks are corroded and may have tape wrapped around the valves.
Lots of home owners have major security but rundown places with excessive security, like cameras, dogs and alarms, could be protecting something illegal. Your state can use your help when it comes to breaking up meth labs but never put yourself in a dangerous position. If you suspect someone is running a meth lab near you call the authorities and let them investigate. Drug dealers are often ruthless people who will do anything - even kill - to protect their business.
What to Do When Your Garbage Disposal Stops
When your garbage disposal stops working, there are a few potential
solutions. First, there is generally a small red button on the underside
of the garbage disposal that "resets" the system. If you get nothing
when flipping the switch (and you have already checked the circuit
breaker), lean down and take a look at the underside of the garbage
disposal. Push in that little red button and hope for the best. If the
disposal was just overworked, or if there was a power surge, this may
fix the problem. Simple, clean, and cheap.
But what if it doesn't work, you ask? Garbage disposals come with a funky looking tool, shaped like a squared-off "s" and hexagonal in shape. If you look at the end, you should see a flat piece of metal with six sides, hence the hexagon. Now, I said the disposals come with this tool, that doesn't mean that you still have it. If you don't, a quick trip to the hardware store will replace it for about $3.00. Now, with this tool in hand, look at the bottom of the garbage disposal, near that little red button. You should find a hole in which this tool will fit. Slip it in there and turn the wrench a few times. This manually forces the garbage disposal to turn, breaking up any hard pieces or goop that may have caused the disposal to stop. A few turns should do the trick. Hop back up and flip the switch. Fixed? Most likely so. If not, you can pay someone to come take a look at it, which will likely cost you hundreds, or you can buy a new disposal and install it yourself, costing yourself no more than a couple hours and $100.
Home Depot and Lowe's each carry several brands of garbage disposals, ranging from about $50 to over $200, but does anyone truly need a garbage disposal that has a silencer on it? Didn't think so. The middle of the road, 1/2 horsepower, or maybe even 2/3 HP should do it for your family. Grab the disposal you want, and make sure you have a screwdriver at home. Now the next steps for installation should be used as a gauge of difficulty, or to supplement the instructions. By no means am I an expert.
First, and most importantly, you want to go flip the breaker to the disposal and make sure no electricity is running to it. Now go study the way the pipes connect to the garbage disposal, because you are going to have to repeat it. Start by disconnecting the pipes going into the disposal. There should be one main one going into the side, that can most easily be disconnected by unscrewing the connector to the disposal. There may also be a pipe connecting the dishwasher to the disposal. If not, your job is even easier.
Your disposal either has a plug coming out of it (hopefully) that plugs directly into a receptacle under the sink, or it is wired directly. If it plugs in, unplug it, skip down a step, then come back to rewire the new disposal. If not, continue reading here. Now, go back to the underside of the disposal, and find where the wires go inside. Unscrew the faceplace right near the wires. Inside, there should be three wires. Most likely they are white, black, and either a bare copper wire, or copper covered in green plastic. These wires are joined somewhere, where the wires going directly into the motor are spliced together (either tape or little screw cap things) with the wires coming out of the wall. Disconnect the wires. Now your disposal should be hanging from the sink, but with nothing else connected to it. Take your screwdriver and slide it into one of the metal tube-like things towards the top (there should be three). While supporting the garbage disposal from the bottom, and pushing up slightly, use the screw driver to turn the base clockwise. Use a little muscle, and the disposal should disconnect from the sink and come out in your hands. Now you have successfully disconnected your current disposal. Congratulations.
Now, you need to learn how to put the new one in, which is basically the exact opposite. First, you will want to reconnect the wires to the wall, using the same screw caps or some electric tape (preferably the screw caps). Make sure you connect green to green, white to white, black to black, etc. Now, lift the disposal up, work it into the clamps, and using the screwdriver, twist counter-clockwise, and the disposal should connect right back under the sink. Now, connect the pipes back the way they were, and you are done! I recommend running a little water through it to make sure it is sealed properly before you turn the power back on. Once you make sure the pipes are sealed, turn the breaker back on, run some cold water, cross your fingers, and flip the switch to the disposal. Ahhh...music to your ears. Who would have thought changing out a garbage disposal would be so easy???
But what if it doesn't work, you ask? Garbage disposals come with a funky looking tool, shaped like a squared-off "s" and hexagonal in shape. If you look at the end, you should see a flat piece of metal with six sides, hence the hexagon. Now, I said the disposals come with this tool, that doesn't mean that you still have it. If you don't, a quick trip to the hardware store will replace it for about $3.00. Now, with this tool in hand, look at the bottom of the garbage disposal, near that little red button. You should find a hole in which this tool will fit. Slip it in there and turn the wrench a few times. This manually forces the garbage disposal to turn, breaking up any hard pieces or goop that may have caused the disposal to stop. A few turns should do the trick. Hop back up and flip the switch. Fixed? Most likely so. If not, you can pay someone to come take a look at it, which will likely cost you hundreds, or you can buy a new disposal and install it yourself, costing yourself no more than a couple hours and $100.
Home Depot and Lowe's each carry several brands of garbage disposals, ranging from about $50 to over $200, but does anyone truly need a garbage disposal that has a silencer on it? Didn't think so. The middle of the road, 1/2 horsepower, or maybe even 2/3 HP should do it for your family. Grab the disposal you want, and make sure you have a screwdriver at home. Now the next steps for installation should be used as a gauge of difficulty, or to supplement the instructions. By no means am I an expert.
First, and most importantly, you want to go flip the breaker to the disposal and make sure no electricity is running to it. Now go study the way the pipes connect to the garbage disposal, because you are going to have to repeat it. Start by disconnecting the pipes going into the disposal. There should be one main one going into the side, that can most easily be disconnected by unscrewing the connector to the disposal. There may also be a pipe connecting the dishwasher to the disposal. If not, your job is even easier.
Your disposal either has a plug coming out of it (hopefully) that plugs directly into a receptacle under the sink, or it is wired directly. If it plugs in, unplug it, skip down a step, then come back to rewire the new disposal. If not, continue reading here. Now, go back to the underside of the disposal, and find where the wires go inside. Unscrew the faceplace right near the wires. Inside, there should be three wires. Most likely they are white, black, and either a bare copper wire, or copper covered in green plastic. These wires are joined somewhere, where the wires going directly into the motor are spliced together (either tape or little screw cap things) with the wires coming out of the wall. Disconnect the wires. Now your disposal should be hanging from the sink, but with nothing else connected to it. Take your screwdriver and slide it into one of the metal tube-like things towards the top (there should be three). While supporting the garbage disposal from the bottom, and pushing up slightly, use the screw driver to turn the base clockwise. Use a little muscle, and the disposal should disconnect from the sink and come out in your hands. Now you have successfully disconnected your current disposal. Congratulations.
Now, you need to learn how to put the new one in, which is basically the exact opposite. First, you will want to reconnect the wires to the wall, using the same screw caps or some electric tape (preferably the screw caps). Make sure you connect green to green, white to white, black to black, etc. Now, lift the disposal up, work it into the clamps, and using the screwdriver, twist counter-clockwise, and the disposal should connect right back under the sink. Now, connect the pipes back the way they were, and you are done! I recommend running a little water through it to make sure it is sealed properly before you turn the power back on. Once you make sure the pipes are sealed, turn the breaker back on, run some cold water, cross your fingers, and flip the switch to the disposal. Ahhh...music to your ears. Who would have thought changing out a garbage disposal would be so easy???
Running clubs offer an excellent opportunity for runners of different
backgrounds and fitness levels to share training tips, participate in
races, and socialize. More importantly, running clubs allow runners to
find other runners. However, when local running clubs don't exist-or
don't meet current needs - it is up to the motivated runner to start
one.
GETTING STARTED Like all projects, getting started can be the hardest part. Begin by deciding exactly what type of running club you want. Is it to be for adults only? Will race walkers and less-experienced runners be allowed? Will the club focus primarily on road racing or cross country racing?
FINDING MEMBERS Next, begin looking for people who might be interested in joining your club. Start with people you know. Do you pass the same runners everyday in the park? Instead of the obligatory wave or "hello" as you pass each other at the bend, stop and ask runners to join your club. Post signs in fitness centers, health food stores, and the local YMCA. Call high school and college track coaches. Oftentimes, these are the people who can provide the longest list of interested runners (and great tips, too!).
YOUR FIRST MEETING
Once you have a group of people agreeable to starting a running club, now it's time to hold your first meeting. Coordinate a time and place for the meeting that is as convenient for as many members as possible. If there is a large group, booking a room at a restaurant or another large venue may be necessary. Churches, local schools, and fitness centers are also possibilities.
CHOOSING A NAME Have running club members suggest potential names for the club. This is a chance to be creative, so pick a name that is fun and suitable for the group. However, if there are other running clubs in your area, be careful not to use a name that is already in use. A simple vote among members present at the meeting is all it takes to give your group a name that is acceptable to everyone (or almost everyone).
APPOINTING/ELECTING CLUB OFFICIALS
Obviously, there are almost a limitless number of positions and officers that a running club could require. Club size, purpose, and resources will help determine how many and what types of officers your club needs. In addition, positions may initially be given out to volunteers or directly appointed by other members-rather than voting.
It is up to members of the running club to collectively determine what officers will be needed and how to choose them. Some examples of positions are:
• President
• Treasurer
• Secretary
• Fundraiser Coordinator
• Social Coordinator
• Race Coordinator
• Club Coach
• Newsletter/Handbook Coordinator
DETERMINING THE CLUB MISSION
During this meeting, members should decide exactly what type of running club is to be formed. Is your club to be just a casual group of people who get together on a regular basis and run? If so, then plan locations and running times. For example, you might decide to meet every Saturday morning at 8:00 to run at the local park. However, if your club has grander plans (such as holding racing events, etc.), plan what types of events to sponsor, possible locations, etc… There is no need to go into great detail here, as this is just your first meeting. However, do make sure to have the proper coordinators in place to organize every aspect of the events (fundraising, coaching, etc.).
WRITING THE CLUB HANDBOOK/BYLAWS At the first meeting-or sometime later-your running club may want to formulate a handbook for present and future members. Include your mission statement and any bylaws that you feel are relevant or important to your club and its members. For example: Are member required to attend a certain number of runs per year to remain active in the running club? Do running club members receive discounts on racing events? What are the club dues?
PLANNING A NEWSLETTER, A WEBSITE, OR BOTH
If your running club has over ten members, it is imperative that you find an effective way to inform them of upcoming events and club news. A newsletter will ensure that members receive information in a timely manner. It can be as simple as a monthly post card, or as sophisticated as a small newspaper-complete with pictures and articles. Your club size member expertise will help determine this.
Another way to instantaneously provide members with information is through a website. Consider starting a webpage so that members may periodically look for information at a time convenient for them. Have important information that just missed the newsletter? A website is the perfect place for it! And don't worry if no one in your running club knows how to start a web page. There are many resources that will help you start and maintain your own web connection.
SCHEDULING RUNS
So now your running club has officers, a mission, prospective races, and a handbook. Everything is in place but the reason behind the running club-running! Plan runs/walks that are as convenient to all members as possible. Are there a large number of runners who live across a wide area? Then perhaps scheduling a number of runs per week (rather than just one) at different locations and times will cater best to your club's needs. Let the members decide.
CONGRATULATIONS, YOU HAVE A RUNNING CLUB!
No longer are you the lone runner of the neighborhood on cold Saturday mornings. You have a whole group of people with the same interest in running that you do. Together with the other members and officers, you will decide what direction your running club will take. Whether your running club has only a small group of dedicated runners, or encompasses a large group of people from varied backgrounds, you now have a social group that shares the same passion you do-running. Now go run!
GETTING STARTED Like all projects, getting started can be the hardest part. Begin by deciding exactly what type of running club you want. Is it to be for adults only? Will race walkers and less-experienced runners be allowed? Will the club focus primarily on road racing or cross country racing?
FINDING MEMBERS Next, begin looking for people who might be interested in joining your club. Start with people you know. Do you pass the same runners everyday in the park? Instead of the obligatory wave or "hello" as you pass each other at the bend, stop and ask runners to join your club. Post signs in fitness centers, health food stores, and the local YMCA. Call high school and college track coaches. Oftentimes, these are the people who can provide the longest list of interested runners (and great tips, too!).
YOUR FIRST MEETING
Once you have a group of people agreeable to starting a running club, now it's time to hold your first meeting. Coordinate a time and place for the meeting that is as convenient for as many members as possible. If there is a large group, booking a room at a restaurant or another large venue may be necessary. Churches, local schools, and fitness centers are also possibilities.
CHOOSING A NAME Have running club members suggest potential names for the club. This is a chance to be creative, so pick a name that is fun and suitable for the group. However, if there are other running clubs in your area, be careful not to use a name that is already in use. A simple vote among members present at the meeting is all it takes to give your group a name that is acceptable to everyone (or almost everyone).
APPOINTING/ELECTING CLUB OFFICIALS
Obviously, there are almost a limitless number of positions and officers that a running club could require. Club size, purpose, and resources will help determine how many and what types of officers your club needs. In addition, positions may initially be given out to volunteers or directly appointed by other members-rather than voting.
It is up to members of the running club to collectively determine what officers will be needed and how to choose them. Some examples of positions are:
• President
• Treasurer
• Secretary
• Fundraiser Coordinator
• Social Coordinator
• Race Coordinator
• Club Coach
• Newsletter/Handbook Coordinator
DETERMINING THE CLUB MISSION
During this meeting, members should decide exactly what type of running club is to be formed. Is your club to be just a casual group of people who get together on a regular basis and run? If so, then plan locations and running times. For example, you might decide to meet every Saturday morning at 8:00 to run at the local park. However, if your club has grander plans (such as holding racing events, etc.), plan what types of events to sponsor, possible locations, etc… There is no need to go into great detail here, as this is just your first meeting. However, do make sure to have the proper coordinators in place to organize every aspect of the events (fundraising, coaching, etc.).
WRITING THE CLUB HANDBOOK/BYLAWS At the first meeting-or sometime later-your running club may want to formulate a handbook for present and future members. Include your mission statement and any bylaws that you feel are relevant or important to your club and its members. For example: Are member required to attend a certain number of runs per year to remain active in the running club? Do running club members receive discounts on racing events? What are the club dues?
PLANNING A NEWSLETTER, A WEBSITE, OR BOTH
If your running club has over ten members, it is imperative that you find an effective way to inform them of upcoming events and club news. A newsletter will ensure that members receive information in a timely manner. It can be as simple as a monthly post card, or as sophisticated as a small newspaper-complete with pictures and articles. Your club size member expertise will help determine this.
Another way to instantaneously provide members with information is through a website. Consider starting a webpage so that members may periodically look for information at a time convenient for them. Have important information that just missed the newsletter? A website is the perfect place for it! And don't worry if no one in your running club knows how to start a web page. There are many resources that will help you start and maintain your own web connection.
SCHEDULING RUNS
So now your running club has officers, a mission, prospective races, and a handbook. Everything is in place but the reason behind the running club-running! Plan runs/walks that are as convenient to all members as possible. Are there a large number of runners who live across a wide area? Then perhaps scheduling a number of runs per week (rather than just one) at different locations and times will cater best to your club's needs. Let the members decide.
CONGRATULATIONS, YOU HAVE A RUNNING CLUB!
No longer are you the lone runner of the neighborhood on cold Saturday mornings. You have a whole group of people with the same interest in running that you do. Together with the other members and officers, you will decide what direction your running club will take. Whether your running club has only a small group of dedicated runners, or encompasses a large group of people from varied backgrounds, you now have a social group that shares the same passion you do-running. Now go run!
One minute you're cruising along in your car, singing to the CD in your
car stereo. The next minute, your car starts chugging and refuses to
accelerate. Your lights
dim, and your car rolls to a stop. You never thought it could happen to
you, but it just did. You've run out of gas. What are you supposed to
do now?
Push to Safety
The first step is to get your car off the road. If your low fuel light came on before you rolled to a stop, or if you recognized the warning signs and felt your car running out of gas, you might have had time to react and pull off to the shoulder or turn down a side street. If you had no clue and you're marooned in traffic, it's time to start pushing. You cannot leave your car in the road, because it will cause a potential safety hazard to other motorists.
To push your car off the road, put on your hazard lights and shift your car into neutral. When you feel it is safe to do so (i.e. when there are no oncoming cars), step out of your vehicle on the driver's side and leave your door ajar. With your left arm on the doorframe, heave mightily to propel your car forward. Keep your right hand on the steering wheel and be prepared to guide your car as it rolls. If you have run out of gas on a city road with no shoulder, turn your car onto a side street with minimal traffic. Accept help from passengers or motorists if someone offers to push. They should stand behind your vehicle and push while you steer. Once your car has been pushed to safety, leave your hazards on if you heave ended up on a shoulder or are parked illegally on a side street. This will signal to motorists not to hit your car. Your hazard lights will also signal to law enforcement that you either plan to return quickly and they should not tow your car, or that you need help if you remain in your vehicle.
If You Have a Cell Phone…
Your safest bet if you run out of gas is to stay in your car. You may have roadside assistance through your cell phone plan, AAA, your auto insurance, or your dealership (if your car is fairly new or a lease). Call roadside assistance if you possibly can. If you do not have roadside assistance, call a friend. Tell your friend you have run out of gas. Your friend should go to a gas station, buy a gas can and some gas, and bring it to you. If you can't reach anyone, call a local tow service. For a steep fee, a tow truck operator will bring you gas and help you start your car. Your mission accomplished, and you can skip the rest of the article.
If You Don't Have a Cell Phone…
Well, it happens, and it's best if you know what to do next. Sitting by the side of the road in a car that's run out of gas isn't going to rescue you, and you know it. Despite everything you've heard about the dangers of leaving your vehicle, you should probably start walking. If you are in an extremely remote area, you should try to flag down help instead of risking dehydration. In a suburban or urban area, your next step is to find a gas station.
Walk Toward the Light
If you know where you are when you run out of gas, good. That means you probably know where to find the nearest gas station. Go there.
If you're in unfamiliar territory, you're probably going to have to make some educated guesses as to what to do next. In an extremely remote area, you should stay in your vehicle and try to flag down help. Walking twenty miles down a desert road isn't going to get you gas, just severe dehydration and possible death. If you run out of gas on a freeway, head for the nearest exit, whether it is ahead or one you just passed. Thankfully, gas stations have a tendency to spring up around freeway exit ramps.
In an urban or suburban setting, the guessing gets tricky. For your own safety as well as to improve your odds of finding a gas station quickly, walk towards lights. The more brightly lit an area of town is, the more likely it is to be densely populated and have a nearby gas station. Do not hesitate to walk into stores or fast food establishments to ask for directions. If you are unable to locate a gas station within a reasonable amount of time, ask to borrow a phone book and use the phone at a local establishment. Buy something or offer money for the phone call to be polite. At this point, you might even consider calling a cab to drive you to the nearest gas station and back to your car.
Fill It Up…Or Not
At the gas station, you will need a few things. First, you must purchase a gas can. These are usually bright red and hold anywhere from one to five gallons of gasoline. If the gas station does not sell gas cans, ask to borrow theirs. Be prepared to leave something of yours as a deposit to ensure your return. Secondly, you need gas. The amount of gas you buy is crucial. If your car has a twenty-gallon gas tank, one measly gallon of gas might not be enough to start your car. But keep in mind that you must walk back to your vehicle, so you might not be able to carry five gallons of gas. If your car has a history of not starting reliably, you might consider buying a fuel additive to help it start.
The gas can you purchase or borrow should have a long tube attached to the cap that goes into your gas tank to hold open the seal. However, you will need a funnel to get the gas into that tube. Pick up a free paper funnel from the gas station. If they don't have them, buy a funnel or something you can make into a funnel (like a newspaper).
The Home Stretch
It should go without saying that the next step is to walk back to your car. Once there, insert the tube from underneath the gas can cap into your car's gas tank. Stick your funnel into the end of the tube and pour. You must pour the gas into your tank excruciatingly slowly to avoid spillage. Remove all helpful instruments, put the cap back on your gas tank, and start your car. Drive away, and don't let it happen again!
Push to Safety
The first step is to get your car off the road. If your low fuel light came on before you rolled to a stop, or if you recognized the warning signs and felt your car running out of gas, you might have had time to react and pull off to the shoulder or turn down a side street. If you had no clue and you're marooned in traffic, it's time to start pushing. You cannot leave your car in the road, because it will cause a potential safety hazard to other motorists.
To push your car off the road, put on your hazard lights and shift your car into neutral. When you feel it is safe to do so (i.e. when there are no oncoming cars), step out of your vehicle on the driver's side and leave your door ajar. With your left arm on the doorframe, heave mightily to propel your car forward. Keep your right hand on the steering wheel and be prepared to guide your car as it rolls. If you have run out of gas on a city road with no shoulder, turn your car onto a side street with minimal traffic. Accept help from passengers or motorists if someone offers to push. They should stand behind your vehicle and push while you steer. Once your car has been pushed to safety, leave your hazards on if you heave ended up on a shoulder or are parked illegally on a side street. This will signal to motorists not to hit your car. Your hazard lights will also signal to law enforcement that you either plan to return quickly and they should not tow your car, or that you need help if you remain in your vehicle.
If You Have a Cell Phone…
Your safest bet if you run out of gas is to stay in your car. You may have roadside assistance through your cell phone plan, AAA, your auto insurance, or your dealership (if your car is fairly new or a lease). Call roadside assistance if you possibly can. If you do not have roadside assistance, call a friend. Tell your friend you have run out of gas. Your friend should go to a gas station, buy a gas can and some gas, and bring it to you. If you can't reach anyone, call a local tow service. For a steep fee, a tow truck operator will bring you gas and help you start your car. Your mission accomplished, and you can skip the rest of the article.
If You Don't Have a Cell Phone…
Well, it happens, and it's best if you know what to do next. Sitting by the side of the road in a car that's run out of gas isn't going to rescue you, and you know it. Despite everything you've heard about the dangers of leaving your vehicle, you should probably start walking. If you are in an extremely remote area, you should try to flag down help instead of risking dehydration. In a suburban or urban area, your next step is to find a gas station.
Walk Toward the Light
If you know where you are when you run out of gas, good. That means you probably know where to find the nearest gas station. Go there.
If you're in unfamiliar territory, you're probably going to have to make some educated guesses as to what to do next. In an extremely remote area, you should stay in your vehicle and try to flag down help. Walking twenty miles down a desert road isn't going to get you gas, just severe dehydration and possible death. If you run out of gas on a freeway, head for the nearest exit, whether it is ahead or one you just passed. Thankfully, gas stations have a tendency to spring up around freeway exit ramps.
In an urban or suburban setting, the guessing gets tricky. For your own safety as well as to improve your odds of finding a gas station quickly, walk towards lights. The more brightly lit an area of town is, the more likely it is to be densely populated and have a nearby gas station. Do not hesitate to walk into stores or fast food establishments to ask for directions. If you are unable to locate a gas station within a reasonable amount of time, ask to borrow a phone book and use the phone at a local establishment. Buy something or offer money for the phone call to be polite. At this point, you might even consider calling a cab to drive you to the nearest gas station and back to your car.
Fill It Up…Or Not
At the gas station, you will need a few things. First, you must purchase a gas can. These are usually bright red and hold anywhere from one to five gallons of gasoline. If the gas station does not sell gas cans, ask to borrow theirs. Be prepared to leave something of yours as a deposit to ensure your return. Secondly, you need gas. The amount of gas you buy is crucial. If your car has a twenty-gallon gas tank, one measly gallon of gas might not be enough to start your car. But keep in mind that you must walk back to your vehicle, so you might not be able to carry five gallons of gas. If your car has a history of not starting reliably, you might consider buying a fuel additive to help it start.
The gas can you purchase or borrow should have a long tube attached to the cap that goes into your gas tank to hold open the seal. However, you will need a funnel to get the gas into that tube. Pick up a free paper funnel from the gas station. If they don't have them, buy a funnel or something you can make into a funnel (like a newspaper).
The Home Stretch
It should go without saying that the next step is to walk back to your car. Once there, insert the tube from underneath the gas can cap into your car's gas tank. Stick your funnel into the end of the tube and pour. You must pour the gas into your tank excruciatingly slowly to avoid spillage. Remove all helpful instruments, put the cap back on your gas tank, and start your car. Drive away, and don't let it happen again!
The Most Underrated Running Back of All-Time, Michael Vick
The NFL is home to the world's greatest athletes and most talented
players. Using speed, strength and power to fight through defenders and
make it to the endzone. There is a player in the NFL is, in my opinion,
is one of the best running backs to have ever played the game, and he
has gone un-noticed as a running back. I give this guy the label; Most
Underrated Running Back of All-Time. The guy that I am talking about
averages over 9.2 yards per carry this season and with 870 rushing yards
is 11th in the NFL in rushing. There is a simple answer as to why he
has gone somewhat un-noticed as a running back; he is a quarterback and
his name is Michael Vick.
I'm sure everyone has his or her own opinion about Michael Vick as a quarterback and say; he can't pass, he's a coach killer, and he needs to be benched, but let's take a look at Michael Vick as a runner and not a passer for a minute. He has more moves than anyone in the NFL and blows by defensive ends and linebackers as if they were standing still. He's fast, he's quick, and he has some superhuman abilities at times when running the football (i.e. Carolina Panthers game a few years back). Over his career he has; 3690 yards rushing, averages 7.4 yards per carry, and has scored 21 rushing touchdowns. For a guy who is supposed to think pass first, those numbers are startling. The Michael Vick as a runner is no doubt one of the best in the league. Think about it, put Matt Shaub in at quarterback for the Atlanta Falcons and put Michael Vick in the backfield. Not only will this allow Michael Vick to get more touches as a runner, but it will add another dimension to the Atlanta Falcons offense with the threat of him passing as well, like LaDanian Tomlinson.
In recent weeks Michael Vick has been under fire by those in Atlanta and around the league. His Falcons are in the midst of a four game losing streak and in jeopardy of falling out of the playoff picture. Michael Vick's passing stats have been subject to heavy criticism as he has not been getting the job done. Also, he has recently been called a 'coach killer' by his coach's father and even became so frustrated with the team and the fans that he kindly gave the 'finger' to the Atlanta crowd. If I were in the Falcons' front office, there is no way I get rid of this guy and let another team pick him up. Instead, I would find new ways to use him. He has been in the league five years and is still struggling as a passer. You have one of the best back-up quarterbacks in the NFL with Matt Shaub. It's time to start utilizing Michael Vick in new ways, getting him the ball in the open field. Running back, wide receiver, quarterback, etc. Put someone in there who is going to get Michael Vick the ball in the open field, that is how you are going to win with this guy on a consistent basis.
Michael Vick as undoubtedly had his struggles as a passer over the early years of his NFL career, and maybe now is the best time to move him from that position. He has some of the best running skills in the NFL, if not the best, and it is time to let him unleash these talents more often throughout the course of the game. Give the ball to the most underrated running back of all time in the open field. We have all seen the speed, the moves, and the result. Just a though, Michael Vick as a multi threat running back, wow!
I'm sure everyone has his or her own opinion about Michael Vick as a quarterback and say; he can't pass, he's a coach killer, and he needs to be benched, but let's take a look at Michael Vick as a runner and not a passer for a minute. He has more moves than anyone in the NFL and blows by defensive ends and linebackers as if they were standing still. He's fast, he's quick, and he has some superhuman abilities at times when running the football (i.e. Carolina Panthers game a few years back). Over his career he has; 3690 yards rushing, averages 7.4 yards per carry, and has scored 21 rushing touchdowns. For a guy who is supposed to think pass first, those numbers are startling. The Michael Vick as a runner is no doubt one of the best in the league. Think about it, put Matt Shaub in at quarterback for the Atlanta Falcons and put Michael Vick in the backfield. Not only will this allow Michael Vick to get more touches as a runner, but it will add another dimension to the Atlanta Falcons offense with the threat of him passing as well, like LaDanian Tomlinson.
In recent weeks Michael Vick has been under fire by those in Atlanta and around the league. His Falcons are in the midst of a four game losing streak and in jeopardy of falling out of the playoff picture. Michael Vick's passing stats have been subject to heavy criticism as he has not been getting the job done. Also, he has recently been called a 'coach killer' by his coach's father and even became so frustrated with the team and the fans that he kindly gave the 'finger' to the Atlanta crowd. If I were in the Falcons' front office, there is no way I get rid of this guy and let another team pick him up. Instead, I would find new ways to use him. He has been in the league five years and is still struggling as a passer. You have one of the best back-up quarterbacks in the NFL with Matt Shaub. It's time to start utilizing Michael Vick in new ways, getting him the ball in the open field. Running back, wide receiver, quarterback, etc. Put someone in there who is going to get Michael Vick the ball in the open field, that is how you are going to win with this guy on a consistent basis.
Michael Vick as undoubtedly had his struggles as a passer over the early years of his NFL career, and maybe now is the best time to move him from that position. He has some of the best running skills in the NFL, if not the best, and it is time to let him unleash these talents more often throughout the course of the game. Give the ball to the most underrated running back of all time in the open field. We have all seen the speed, the moves, and the result. Just a though, Michael Vick as a multi threat running back, wow!
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